Sugar Cane Vintage Wash & Premium Care Detergent

We had the chance to sit down with Sean (mentioned in our earlier post – see “Tokyo Denim Scene Tour – Blue In Green’s Gordon Heffner“) and after sharing his stories wandering the denim district, Ameyoko, Ueno, he handed me a really interesting and unique gift (thanks again!):  Sugar Cane Vintage Wash & Premium Care Detergent.

My Japanese is a little rusty (a.k.a. non-existent) and we were short on time for Sean to translate, so I did a bit of digging to find out more details.  By way of Gordon Heffner of Blue In Green and Japanese e-tailer Rakuten, we found out that it is an alternative cleaning aid based on a special combination of amino acids.  Long story short – the “Vintage Wash” takes care of the cleaning aspect while the “Premium Care” solution sees to the post-cleaning treatment.

Unfortunately, we were unable to nail down a retailer selling the product (will keep searching and update), but if you do get your hands on a package, here’s the step-by-step:

1. Draw 8 gallons (or 30 liters) of cold/luke-warm water into bath tub (not hot water, otherwise you risk severe indigo loss)
2. Combine with “Vintage Wash” detergent package
3. Submerge for 20 minutes and lightly hand wash
4. Rinse with clean water so no detergent residue remains
5. Draw fresh bathtub of “Premium Care” solution to warm water (40C or 104F) of 0.8-1.3 gallons (3-5 liters)
6. Soak for 15 minutes
7. Hang dry denim (without rinsing off “Premium Care” solution)
8. Avoid hanging in direct sunlight and hang in shade

Additional Resources:

• Rakuten Site
• Gordon Heffner (Blue In Green) Post

Stay Raw!

-Nick
@rawrdenim

The post Sugar Cane Soap – Vintage Wash & Premium Care Detergent appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Oni Denim (Source: indigoshrimp.wordpress.com)

Have you ever wondered why certain raw denim brands have arcuates or arcs (i.e. back-pocket stitching) on their jeans, while others do not? Or that identical pairs of jeans are only differentiated by the design on the rear pocket, such as these two pairs of Samurai‘s:

So what gives?  Back in January of 2007, iconic denim brand Levi’s sued various denim brands ranging from Von Dutch to Sugar Cane for trademark infringement in North America based upon four issues:

1. Rear pocket stitching must not resemble the Levi’s arcuate in any way, shape, or form
2. The leather patch cannot show objects pulling jeans apart
3. No tabs or labels on the vertical seam of a back-pocket
4. Information cards hanging out of the back-pocket, cannot resemble Levi’s’ cards

The result was that a majority of Japanese repro brands had to pull certain models from production, and go so far as to change their arcuate design.

Some examples include:

Studio D’Artisan Patch

Studio D'Artisan Patch – Before and After

Studio D’Artisan Arcs

Studio D'Artisan Arcs – Before and After

Skull Jeans Arcs

Skull Jeans Red Tag – Before and After

What are your thoughts here?  This issue happened and has settled well over 4 years ago now, but is it fair for Levi’s to lay claim to details such as these?  Is there any way these Japanese repro brands can argue their case or is Levi’s just too much of a 500 pound gorilla?

We’d love to hear your thoughts so please comment below.

Additional Resources

• New York Times Article

Stay Raw!

-Jian
@rawrdenim

The post 4 Years Later – Levis v.s. Japanese Repro Lawsuit Still Fair Game? appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Raw Denim Reading "American Market Kawasaki"

As a tech-savvy denim-enthusiast, I spend a fair bit of time combing the internet for news of new models, brands, and happenings in the raw denim scene. Part of that constant search involves visiting a regular rotation of websites and blogs, some of which I hope to share with readers over the next little while.

For starters, I have to admit that many of these sites (the blogs, in particular) are only offered in Japanese. I understand that this can be a nuisance for many, but I assure you that they are still worth a visit if for no other reason than the awesome photos (think of it as “denim porn”).

One such blog is a Yahoo-based site by the title of American Market Kawasaki. Despite the odd and somewhat misleading name, the blog is a treasure trove of photos and info about denim and vintage Americana. Run by a gentleman using the moniker “Dumbo”,  the blog has regular, almost daily, updates.

While very little info is provided by Dumbo about himself, it appears he runs a shop specializing in denim, American casual clothing, and all things vintage. He regularly posts photos of new items he comes across, as well as his own personal outfits (similar to Superfuture’s “What Are You Wearing Today?” thread).

For our purposes, though, the most relevant part of the blog is his documentation of his denim progress. The blog has featured many Japanese staple brands, including The Flat Head, Warehouse and Sugar Cane. However, Dumbo’s main brand of choice is Samurai Jeans. His collection of Samurai jeans are well-known in the Japanese denim scene, going so far as to be featured regularly on the Samurai Jeans official site’s “Boast of Denim”.

On top of this, there is evidence to suggest that Dumbo is a personal acquaintance of Samurai Jeans’ president Nogami-san. More importantly, is the striking fades that occur on Dumbo’s jeans. His collection of jeans takes the term “contrast fades” to a whole new level.

Many people find the fades fascinating, with some Japanese denim-heads referring to them as “water-fades” due to their similarity to rippling water. Others find the fades unattractive, citing them as being too intense or looking fake. Whatever the case, it must be said that Dumbo’s blog is an excellent example of the Japanese denim scene. Let us know your thoughts in the comments below.

Blogger "Dumbo"

Dumbo's Samurai S510XX 24oz.

The post Raw Denim Reading – “American Market Kawasaki” appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

I recently had the opportunity to vist the shop Take5 in Bangkok; a denim paradise and a must-stop for denim geeks who visit Thailand. We had previously reviewed Take5 Hong Kong and this shop is another piece of proof for the denim popularity in Southern Asia.

Despite the hot weather in Thailand not sounding all that appealing for raw denim, heavy denim jeans enjoy an upswing popularity between young and not so young local middle class. It makes you wonder how they can endure days of 30C using denim of 16oz. and up. Real denim lovers? Well, this shop is the confirmation that there are real denim lovers in Bangkok.

Raw denim here is easy to spot; you just have to stand in any of the many malls that populate this city to understand how massive the trend is, particularly skinny jeans which seem the most popular choice. Young Thai boys are experiencing a growing love for Americana.

Take5 Bangkok recently jumped on top of the denim wave and positioned themselves straight on the highest level, selling brands like Samurai, The Flat Head, Iron Heart, Studio D’artisan, Momotaro, Denime, Dry Bones, Sugar Cane, Long Wolf and a long et cetera list.

Leather goods from Red Moon are also to be found mixed with fine silverware (another current popular Asian trend), denim related magazines, collector toys and accesories.

Take5 have also recently taking initiative in the denim market producing collaborations with a variety of different denim brands. At the time when we visited we saw collaborations with The Flat Head, Samurai, Studio D’artisan and Warehouse.

They also have their own denim line, Take5 Original Jeans, from where the latest version is the T5-003, a 160z. jean which is designed after the popular Momotaro 0701, using the same Okayama Japanese denim.

The staff know and love their work. Even though just one of them was able to speak English, the Asiatic hospitality was always there. The knowledge of denim was  easy to see also. Advice about what to buy and what not to buy was almost a philosophy: “Do not buy a brand just because your friend have it, buy what it fits you better,” not just a sales man behind the counter, but a good denim advisor.

An added bonus of Take5, if you buy a pair of jeans, they also offer a chainstitching service using a old Union Special, a job they are keen to do in front of you. If you are planning for your next holidays to visit any of the paradisiacal beaches in Thailand, stop in Bangkok and  give Take5 a visit, you wont regret it.

Address

Take5 Bangkok
258/8-10,2/F, Lido Theater, Saim Square
Soi 3, Bangkok, Thailand

Take5 Bangkok – Studio D’artisan fades on display

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Self Edge New York – Top Shops In New York City To Buy Raw Denim

Regardless of your denim preferences, when it comes to purchasing top notch raw denim in New York City, there are certainly no shortage of brick and mortar shops that can cater to your desires.

Bearing this in mind, here is a list of what we consider to be some of the premier destinations in the Big Apple to grab yourself a new pair of raw denim jeans. Note that each store has its own specialties to meet your denim needs, so be sure to not limit yourself to just one shop!

1. Blue in Green

Blue in Green – 8 Greene Street, NY

Blue in Green is widely regarded as one of the top places to buy raw denim in the world, let alone New York City. The staff provides excellent service and they are extremely knowledgable about the products they carry.

They have one of the most diverse selections of top quality raw denim in the city, including brands such as Japan Blue, Eternal, Left Field, Momotaro, Samurai, and many more. Stop by their SoHo location, or check out their impressive selection online.

2. Self Edge

Self Edge NY – 157 Orchard Street, NY

Andrew Chen and his Self Edge staff are known as being some of the experts on raw denim and their brick and mortar shop in New York City does not disappoint. They provide a full range of denim services, including repairs as well as chain stitch hems; and their employees are friendly and extremely knowledgable about raw denim.

Self Edge specializes in Japanese denim brands including: The Flat Head, Iron Heart, Sugar Cane and Co., as well as American brands Roy and 3sixteen. Stop by their location on the Lower East Side, or check them out online.

3. Steven Alan

Steven Alan – Multiple Locations (but from experience the 103 Franklin Street location has the best raw denim selection)

Steven Alan is more known for their shirts and other non-denim goods, but their multiple locations around the city also stock a unique collection of raw denim. Brands that the stores carry include: Steven Alan, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, 3sixteen, Acne, Baldwin, A.P.C., and more. Check out one of their well-curated shops around the city, or their online shop.

4. The Jean Shop

The Jean Shop – 435 West 14th Street, NY

Originally focused primarily on top quality denim, The Jean Shop has expanded its offerings to include an assortment of products ranging from belts and shirts to jackets.

Though they have expanded, they are still best known for producing custom denim out of premium Japanese selvedge denim. Stop by their location in the Meatpacking District, or online.

5. Barney’s Co-Op

Barney’s Co-Op – Multiple Locations

Barney’s Denim Bar offers an extremely diverse and extensive selection of raw denim. They carry high-end designer brands like Saint Laurent and Givenchy, mid-tier brands like Jean Shop and Raleigh Denim, as well as more wallet-friendly denim from brands like Nudie and Naked & Famous.

The large selection guarantees something for everybody. Stop by one of their many New York City locations, or check them out online. 

6. Hickoree’s

Hickorees – 109 South 6th Street Brooklyn, NY

Though Hickoree’s Hard Goods is not known for their raw denim selection, they stock an eclectic and impressive variety of raw denim that is not easily found elsewhere.

Brands that Hickoree’s stocks include Tender, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Kapital, The Quality Mending Co., and many more. Check them out at their Floor Two location in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, or online.

The post Top Shops In New York City To Buy Raw Denim appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

One of Japan’s largest and most influential American Casual manufacturers is Toyo Enterprises, a company with decades of experience in the Japanese apparel market. Started in 1965 as a supplier for American soldiers in Japan, Toyo‘s present-day brand list includes the military reproductions of Buzz Rickson’s, the native/western inspired Indian Motorcycle and the eye-catching retro styles of Star Of Hollywood. Toyo also produces the designs of Los Angeles’ Mister Freedom. Despite all those heavy hitters, Toyo‘s best-known brand is undoubtedly Sugar Cane & Co.

Sugar Cane got their start in 1975 and have been making high level casual clothing ever since. Despite their reputation as a vintage reproduction brand, they’ve had a distinct approach to their craft, an intention apparent even from the brand’s name.

While most raw denim brands use 100% cotton fabrics, Sugar Cane often uses a blend of cotton and sugar cane fibres which is better for the environment due to the lower percentage of cotton used. Some of their best-known jeans are the Awa, Okinawa, and Hawaii – all of which are named after areas where the sugar cane plant is grown.

While Sugar Cane’s jeans have a variety of unique details – from the sugar cane blended denim to the snakeskin patch of the Okinawa – the brand is conceptually indebted to American workwear from the first half of the twentieth century. The reasons for workwear’s resurgence in popularity is enough of a subject for its own article, but for many Japanese brands looking to reproduce vintage clothing, it’s an obvious place to start.

For one, work-oriented clothing was produced in relatively high quantities in comparison to bespoke suits and formal wear and it showed a rougher side of life that’s not always well-preserved. Additionally, such clothing was initially widely available in thrift stores, enabling enterprising Japanese collectors to buy up stock and re-sell it in Japan for a profit – interestingly this was how many of these brands got started.

Sugar Cane has a similar story. Workwear makes up a large percentage of Toyo‘s flagship brand – items ranging from jeans and hickory pants to work shirts, jackets, hats, and other items. For Japanese, the majority of whom work white-collar, suit-and-tie office jobs, the clothing worn by American blue-collar labourers decades ago has quite interestingly turned into a fashion subculture and sort of casual wear uniform which is particularly evident in Sugar Cane‘s products.

There’s much more to Sugar Cane than just workwear though. The company’s Fiction Romance line, for example, is one of the most intriguing parts of their collection. It aims to create completely original designs inspired by vintage garments, but with a unique character exclusive to them and evident in their unique fabrics and details like buttons and other hardware.

Jeans are at the heart of Sugar Cane‘s lineup and feature meticulously-researched details such as a 60% American/40% African cotton blend fabric, like those found in original 1947 Levis jeans. The fabrics used by Sugar Cane - like all of Japan’s best denim brands – are not stock fabrics sold by mills, but ones that are developed by the brand after extensive research and testing.

As they started as an existing textile manufacturer, rather than an independent company that would need to find and contract factories in order to produce their garments, they found themselves in the enviable position of being able to produce original fabrics themselves; thus cutting down on the overhead costs associated with subcontracting. As a result, the 1947 model is not only an exemplary reproduction jean, but it also costs half as much as many of Japan’s high-end denim brands while still being made entirely in Japan.

While the 1947 is a impressive bang-for-the-buck value among high-priced Japanese denim brands, it’s also a fairly conventional model.  Sugar Cane‘s other jeans – though they maintain traditional cuts – throw conventionality out the window. The Okinawa, for example, features a snakeskin patch in addition to the denim, which is a blend of sugarcane and cotton. It’s a model that manages a balance few Japanese denim companies achieve, a creation that looks classic from a distance but rewards those with an eye to detail through its unique features.

Perhaps what’s most refreshing about Sugar Cane’s core jeans, such as the Okinawa and Hawaii, is that they aren’t embarrassed to flaunt their Japanese identity. Sugar Cane pulls off a refreshing blend of mid-century American influence and Japanese sensibilities that’s far easier said than done.  That said, in the end we wouldn’t expect any less from one of the eldest statesmen of the Japanese denim scene.

The post Sugar Cane and Co. Jeans: The Short And Sweet appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Denim inspired by vintage designs is not a new phenomenon, but California-based Mister Freedom has its defining “Californian” influence proudly at the forefront for the Lot. 64 “Californian” Blue Jeans. Inspired by a fairly popular brand and its timeless 501 fit, this pair exudes 1950′s cool.  Started by French expatriate Christophe Loiron, Mister Freedom takes its classic inspiration very seriously.

Based on a vintage silhouette, the Lot. 64 “Californian” Blue Jeans come with a traditional mid-rise and a slightly tapered straight leg. The fabric is Sugar Cane‘s ’66 denim – a 13.75 Oz. Japanese selvedge milled on vintage looms in Japan and then cut and sewn in the USA. It’s a right hand twill, with a white and pink selvedge ID.

There are tons of other details, so be sure to check them out below. The recently-released pair is available now on Self Edge‘s online shop.

Details

• Name: Mister Freedom Lot. 64 “Californian” Blue Jeans
• Weight: 13.75 Oz.
• Fabric: Unsanforized 100% cotton Sugar Cane ’66 right hand twill Japanese selvedge
• Fit: Traditional mid-rise straight leg with a slight taper below the knee
• Other details:
  • White/pink selvedge ID
  • Original “M” pocket stitch design and solid un-branded cowhide leather patch on back right pocket
  • Printed MFSC cloth patch on waistband
  • Hidden back pocket rivets with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching
  • NOS 100% cotton woven plaid, indigo dyed yarn pocket lining
  • Original MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons and unmarked copper rivets
  • Made in the USA of Japanese denim
• Available at: Self Edge for $330.00 USD

Photos

The post Mister Freedom Lot. 64 “Californian” Blue Jeans – Just Released appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Japan’s American Casual style incorporates various mid-century American influences into its style – the workwear of factory and railroad workers, the rebellious biker, the west-coat cowboy, and others – but one of the most conspicuous though somewhat under-represented in the West is that of military reproduction.

Though Buzz Rickson is known for this style and companies like Sugar Cane occasionally explore it as well, it’s a major part of the Japanese vintage scene that’s under-represented in the West. It’s an interesting testament to the Japanese mindset that, only a few years after the loss of World War II, men became enamoured with the style of American soldiers, particularly the heavyweight, durable flight jackets worn by Air Force aviators who fought against Japan in the war.

Decades later, reproductions of military jackets are perhaps more popular in Japan than North America; though it’s a rather ironic twist, it’s hard to fault the Japanese interpretation of classic American military wear.

A Toys McCoy leather jacket.

One of Japan’s outstanding military brands is Toys McCoy. Despite the similar name, the company should not be confused with The Real McCoys as they split some years ago and are now completely separate companies. Toys McCoy reproduces not only the quality and design of vintage military jackets, but also the personalized details that made each item a unique creation.

Though the Toys McCoy jackets carry a high price tag – often approaching $3,000 USD – you’d be hard-pressed to find jackets created with more love or attention to detail. From their plain A-2 jackets to lavishly decorated and aged examples, it’s evident that the brand isn’t content to simply reproduce the specs of a garment – they also infuse them with the same life and unique qualities that make originals so desirable.

But while A-2 and N-1 military jackets might be the company’s bread and butter, they’re far from all that the brand has to offer. Toys McCoy also offers a wide range of pants and trousers – particularly of note of jeans like the 135D, based on World War II specs and the company’s imagining of jeans for aircraft carrier deck crews.

The brand’s apparel has a very different flavour from strict reproduction or work wear brands which is particularly evident in their T-shirt and sweatshirt designs featuring Air Force and other vintage motifs. They’re a good way for the denim head to diversify his wardrobe beyond the more common work wear items. For those into a more classic look, the Engineer 135D is another good choice with plainer detailing and subtle military touches like the stitch colours and US Air Force pocket bags.

Besides military-themed products, Toys McCoy also takes inspiration from racing. The company offers reproductions of Buco helmets, rider’s jackets and T-shirts based off the film Easy Rider, Steve McQueen, and others. Though the company’s product certain stands on its own, it’s licenses like these that offer some of their most interesting work – for example, their Shelby Cobra racing jackets and Mopar apparel.

These are all well-worth exploring for the denim head who’s interested in vintage-inspired fashion that goes beyond work and western wear, and the company’s T-shirts and sweatshirts are a good way to try the brand prior to buying a leather jacket, for example.

While many companies cover their products in garbled, patchwork English phrases, the graphics and wording on Toys McCoy products have an authenticity and plausibility that’s quite refreshing for Japanese brands that tend to go overboard.

As their name suggests, Toys McCoy has a playful side not often seen in reproduction brands. You’ll find motorcycle helmets with Warner Bros. characters, action figures, whistles, dog tags and other diverse and interesting accessories.

Compared to many Japanese brands that stick with familiar styles and themes that have already been thoroughly explored, Toys McCoy are quite adept at finding new and interesting ways to evoke American nostalgia in their products.

The post Introducing Toys McCoy – Classic & Vintage Military Wear appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

A while back we covered a brand from Colorado called White Horse Trading Co which is owned by Ryan Martin, the sole operator of the brand making everything from start to finish. For Martin, White Horse was an experiment to test fits, fabrics, and techniques and in that respect, it was a great learning experience and overall huge success.

Since then, however, the brand has moved on from the experimentation phase with a fuller line up of fits, as well as plans to add on Ready-To-Wear garments to their bespoke offerings. With that significant change comes a new name. White Horse Trading Co has now become WH Ranch Dungarees.

R1911

Under the new moniker, Martin now offers three fits of jeans and a denim jacket. All the garments feature a 15 oz. shrink to fit selvedge denim from Cone Mills that will serve as the mainstay fabric for WH Ranch Dungarees. It’s important to note though that during the White Horse Trading Co. phase, Martin had a chance to test out all sorts of fabrics and developed an extensive knowledge of different denim available around the world.

As a result, he will be regularly offering limited runs using different types of fabric alongside the 15 oz. STF denim. Those who follow him on various social networking sites and apps recently had a chance to purchase the jeans made from a very limited Nihon Menpu 16 oz. Sugar Cane denim. It’ll be very interesting to see what else he has up his sleeves in the coming months.

While fabrics choices are an important part of what makes an article of clothing worth looking at, it’s the construction of the garments that really sets WH Ranch Dungarees apart. Everything is still done from beginning to end by Martin using only single needle construction and self enclosed components so that there are no raw edges and overlocked edges.

They all feature a seemingly endless list of details such as heavy 10 oz. drill cloth pocket bags, heavy Tex 80 cotton/poly thread, roped hems, YKK brass buttons, hand branded hair-on-hide patch and copper rivets and burrs. These details shows where Martin’s attention is focused and it’s clear that his goal is create clothes that are durable, will age gracefully with time, and feature aesthetically pleasing but functional details both on the outside and inside of the clothes.

In terms of fits, there are three options available: the R1901X Icon Fit (straight), R1911 Slim Boot Cut, and R1914 Vintage Fit (tapered). The R1901J is a modified type II jacket with one front pocket, cinch back, hair on hide patch, and single needle triple stitching throughout.

R1901X

R1901J

R1901J

In the spirit of collaboration and experimenting with different fits, fabrics and ideas, Martin has also teamed up with photography Cory Piehowicz (also known as the Bandit Photographer) and the North Carolina retail shop Old North to create a brand called, The Lower 48.

The Lower 48 will be an ongoing collaboration that focuses on workwear inspired clothing with a nod to the old western styles. The first run from this partnership is a double knee jean made from a 15 oz. pink-lined black Japanese selvedge denim. Named the Roughneck, the jean features many of the same construction details as the jeans from WH Ranch Dungarees but adds a double knee for durability, side entry pockets, a utility pocket, and a cinch back on the waist. It’s a true workwear jean that is meant to last a long time for those who put their jeans to the test.

The Roughneck

If 2013 was any indication of what we can expect from Ryan, then 2014 will prove to be an exciting time to watch what WH Ranch Dungarees will have to offer. Keep up to date on their website.

Source: The Bandit Photographer

Source: The Bandit Photographer

The post WH Ranch Dungarees And The Lower 48 – Onwards And Upwards appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Raw Denim Reading "American Market Kawasaki"

As a tech-savvy denim-enthusiast, I spend a fair bit of time combing the internet for news of new models, brands, and happenings in the raw denim scene. Part of that constant search involves visiting a regular rotation of websites and blogs, some of which I hope to share with readers over the next little while.

For starters, I have to admit that many of these sites (the blogs, in particular) are only offered in Japanese. I understand that this can be a nuisance for many, but I assure you that they are still worth a visit if for no other reason than the awesome photos (think of it as “denim porn”).

One such blog is a Yahoo-based site by the title of American Market Kawasaki. Despite the odd and somewhat misleading name, the blog is a treasure trove of photos and info about denim and vintage Americana. Run by a gentleman using the moniker “Dumbo”,  the blog has regular, almost daily, updates.

While very little info is provided by Dumbo about himself, it appears he runs a shop specializing in denim, American casual clothing, and all things vintage. He regularly posts photos of new items he comes across, as well as his own personal outfits (similar to Superfuture’s “What Are You Wearing Today?” thread).

For our purposes, though, the most relevant part of the blog is his documentation of his denim progress. The blog has featured many Japanese staple brands, including The Flat Head, Warehouse and Sugar Cane. However, Dumbo’s main brand of choice is Samurai Jeans. His collection of Samurai jeans are well-known in the Japanese denim scene, going so far as to be featured regularly on the Samurai Jeans official site’s “Boast of Denim”.

On top of this, there is evidence to suggest that Dumbo is a personal acquaintance of Samurai Jeans’ president Nogami-san. More importantly, is the striking fades that occur on Dumbo’s jeans. His collection of jeans takes the term “contrast fades” to a whole new level.

Many people find the fades fascinating, with some Japanese denim-heads referring to them as “water-fades” due to their similarity to rippling water. Others find the fades unattractive, citing them as being too intense or looking fake. Whatever the case, it must be said that Dumbo’s blog is an excellent example of the Japanese denim scene. Let us know your thoughts in the comments below.

Blogger "Dumbo"

Dumbo's Samurai S510XX 24oz.

The post Raw Denim Reading – “American Market Kawasaki” appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

I recently had the opportunity to vist the shop Take5 in Bangkok; a denim paradise and a must-stop for denim geeks who visit Thailand. We had previously reviewed Take5 Hong Kong and this shop is another piece of proof for the denim popularity in Southern Asia.

Despite the hot weather in Thailand not sounding all that appealing for raw denim, heavy denim jeans enjoy an upswing popularity between young and not so young local middle class. It makes you wonder how they can endure days of 30C using denim of 16oz. and up. Real denim lovers? Well, this shop is the confirmation that there are real denim lovers in Bangkok.

Raw denim here is easy to spot; you just have to stand in any of the many malls that populate this city to understand how massive the trend is, particularly skinny jeans which seem the most popular choice. Young Thai boys are experiencing a growing love for Americana.

Take5 Bangkok recently jumped on top of the denim wave and positioned themselves straight on the highest level, selling brands like Samurai, The Flat Head, Iron Heart, Studio D’artisan, Momotaro, Denime, Dry Bones, Sugar Cane, Long Wolf and a long et cetera list.

Leather goods from Red Moon are also to be found mixed with fine silverware (another current popular Asian trend), denim related magazines, collector toys and accesories.

Take5 have also recently taking initiative in the denim market producing collaborations with a variety of different denim brands. At the time when we visited we saw collaborations with The Flat Head, Samurai, Studio D’artisan and Warehouse.

They also have their own denim line, Take5 Original Jeans, from where the latest version is the T5-003, a 160z. jean which is designed after the popular Momotaro 0701, using the same Okayama Japanese denim.

The staff know and love their work. Even though just one of them was able to speak English, the Asiatic hospitality was always there. The knowledge of denim was  easy to see also. Advice about what to buy and what not to buy was almost a philosophy: “Do not buy a brand just because your friend have it, buy what it fits you better,” not just a sales man behind the counter, but a good denim advisor.

An added bonus of Take5, if you buy a pair of jeans, they also offer a chainstitching service using a old Union Special, a job they are keen to do in front of you. If you are planning for your next holidays to visit any of the paradisiacal beaches in Thailand, stop in Bangkok and  give Take5 a visit, you wont regret it.

Address

Take5 Bangkok
258/8-10,2/F, Lido Theater, Saim Square
Soi 3, Bangkok, Thailand

Take5 Bangkok – Studio D’artisan fades on display

The post Take5 Bangkok – Thailand Denim Paradise appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Self Edge New York – Top Shops In New York City To Buy Raw Denim

Regardless of your denim preferences, when it comes to purchasing top notch raw denim in New York City, there are certainly no shortage of brick and mortar shops that can cater to your desires.

Bearing this in mind, here is a list of what we consider to be some of the premier destinations in the Big Apple to grab yourself a new pair of raw denim jeans. Note that each store has its own specialties to meet your denim needs, so be sure to not limit yourself to just one shop!

1. Blue in Green

Blue in Green – 8 Greene Street, NY

Blue in Green is widely regarded as one of the top places to buy raw denim in the world, let alone New York City. The staff provides excellent service and they are extremely knowledgable about the products they carry.

They have one of the most diverse selections of top quality raw denim in the city, including brands such as Japan Blue, Eternal, Left Field, Momotaro, Samurai, and many more. Stop by their SoHo location, or check out their impressive selection online.

2. Self Edge

Self Edge NY – 157 Orchard Street, NY

Andrew Chen and his Self Edge staff are known as being some of the experts on raw denim and their brick and mortar shop in New York City does not disappoint. They provide a full range of denim services, including repairs as well as chain stitch hems; and their employees are friendly and extremely knowledgable about raw denim.

Self Edge specializes in Japanese denim brands including: The Flat Head, Iron Heart, Sugar Cane and Co., as well as American brands Roy and 3sixteen. Stop by their location on the Lower East Side, or check them out online.

3. Steven Alan

Steven Alan – Multiple Locations (but from experience the 103 Franklin Street location has the best raw denim selection)

Steven Alan is more known for their shirts and other non-denim goods, but their multiple locations around the city also stock a unique collection of raw denim. Brands that the stores carry include: Steven Alan, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, 3sixteen, Acne, Baldwin, A.P.C., and more. Check out one of their well-curated shops around the city, or their online shop.

4. The Jean Shop

The Jean Shop – 435 West 14th Street, NY

Originally focused primarily on top quality denim, The Jean Shop has expanded its offerings to include an assortment of products ranging from belts and shirts to jackets.

Though they have expanded, they are still best known for producing custom denim out of premium Japanese selvedge denim. Stop by their location in the Meatpacking District, or online.

5. Barney’s Co-Op

Barney’s Co-Op – Multiple Locations

Barney’s Denim Bar offers an extremely diverse and extensive selection of raw denim. They carry high-end designer brands like Saint Laurent and Givenchy, mid-tier brands like Jean Shop and Raleigh Denim, as well as more wallet-friendly denim from brands like Nudie and Naked & Famous.

The large selection guarantees something for everybody. Stop by one of their many New York City locations, or check them out online. 

6. Hickoree’s

Hickorees – 109 South 6th Street Brooklyn, NY

Though Hickoree’s Hard Goods is not known for their raw denim selection, they stock an eclectic and impressive variety of raw denim that is not easily found elsewhere.

Brands that Hickoree’s stocks include Tender, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Kapital, The Quality Mending Co., and many more. Check them out at their Floor Two location in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, or online.

The post Top Shops In New York City To Buy Raw Denim appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

One of Japan’s largest and most influential American Casual manufacturers is Toyo Enterprises, a company with decades of experience in the Japanese apparel market. Started in 1965 as a supplier for American soldiers in Japan, Toyo‘s present-day brand list includes the military reproductions of Buzz Rickson’s, the native/western inspired Indian Motorcycle and the eye-catching retro styles of Star Of Hollywood. Toyo also produces the designs of Los Angeles’ Mister Freedom. Despite all those heavy hitters, Toyo‘s best-known brand is undoubtedly Sugar Cane & Co.

Sugar Cane got their start in 1975 and have been making high level casual clothing ever since. Despite their reputation as a vintage reproduction brand, they’ve had a distinct approach to their craft, an intention apparent even from the brand’s name.

While most raw denim brands use 100% cotton fabrics, Sugar Cane often uses a blend of cotton and sugar cane fibres which is better for the environment due to the lower percentage of cotton used. Some of their best-known jeans are the Awa, Okinawa, and Hawaii – all of which are named after areas where the sugar cane plant is grown.

While Sugar Cane’s jeans have a variety of unique details – from the sugar cane blended denim to the snakeskin patch of the Okinawa – the brand is conceptually indebted to American workwear from the first half of the twentieth century. The reasons for workwear’s resurgence in popularity is enough of a subject for its own article, but for many Japanese brands looking to reproduce vintage clothing, it’s an obvious place to start.

For one, work-oriented clothing was produced in relatively high quantities in comparison to bespoke suits and formal wear and it showed a rougher side of life that’s not always well-preserved. Additionally, such clothing was initially widely available in thrift stores, enabling enterprising Japanese collectors to buy up stock and re-sell it in Japan for a profit – interestingly this was how many of these brands got started.

Sugar Cane has a similar story. Workwear makes up a large percentage of Toyo‘s flagship brand – items ranging from jeans and hickory pants to work shirts, jackets, hats, and other items. For Japanese, the majority of whom work white-collar, suit-and-tie office jobs, the clothing worn by American blue-collar labourers decades ago has quite interestingly turned into a fashion subculture and sort of casual wear uniform which is particularly evident in Sugar Cane‘s products.

There’s much more to Sugar Cane than just workwear though. The company’s Fiction Romance line, for example, is one of the most intriguing parts of their collection. It aims to create completely original designs inspired by vintage garments, but with a unique character exclusive to them and evident in their unique fabrics and details like buttons and other hardware.

Jeans are at the heart of Sugar Cane‘s lineup and feature meticulously-researched details such as a 60% American/40% African cotton blend fabric, like those found in original 1947 Levis jeans. The fabrics used by Sugar Cane - like all of Japan’s best denim brands – are not stock fabrics sold by mills, but ones that are developed by the brand after extensive research and testing.

As they started as an existing textile manufacturer, rather than an independent company that would need to find and contract factories in order to produce their garments, they found themselves in the enviable position of being able to produce original fabrics themselves; thus cutting down on the overhead costs associated with subcontracting. As a result, the 1947 model is not only an exemplary reproduction jean, but it also costs half as much as many of Japan’s high-end denim brands while still being made entirely in Japan.

While the 1947 is a impressive bang-for-the-buck value among high-priced Japanese denim brands, it’s also a fairly conventional model.  Sugar Cane‘s other jeans – though they maintain traditional cuts – throw conventionality out the window. The Okinawa, for example, features a snakeskin patch in addition to the denim, which is a blend of sugarcane and cotton. It’s a model that manages a balance few Japanese denim companies achieve, a creation that looks classic from a distance but rewards those with an eye to detail through its unique features.

Perhaps what’s most refreshing about Sugar Cane’s core jeans, such as the Okinawa and Hawaii, is that they aren’t embarrassed to flaunt their Japanese identity. Sugar Cane pulls off a refreshing blend of mid-century American influence and Japanese sensibilities that’s far easier said than done.  That said, in the end we wouldn’t expect any less from one of the eldest statesmen of the Japanese denim scene.

The post Sugar Cane and Co. Jeans: The Short And Sweet appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Denim inspired by vintage designs is not a new phenomenon, but California-based Mister Freedom has its defining “Californian” influence proudly at the forefront for the Lot. 64 “Californian” Blue Jeans. Inspired by a fairly popular brand and its timeless 501 fit, this pair exudes 1950′s cool.  Started by French expatriate Christophe Loiron, Mister Freedom takes its classic inspiration very seriously.

Based on a vintage silhouette, the Lot. 64 “Californian” Blue Jeans come with a traditional mid-rise and a slightly tapered straight leg. The fabric is Sugar Cane‘s ’66 denim – a 13.75 Oz. Japanese selvedge milled on vintage looms in Japan and then cut and sewn in the USA. It’s a right hand twill, with a white and pink selvedge ID.

There are tons of other details, so be sure to check them out below. The recently-released pair is available now on Self Edge‘s online shop.

Details

• Name: Mister Freedom Lot. 64 “Californian” Blue Jeans
• Weight: 13.75 Oz.
• Fabric: Unsanforized 100% cotton Sugar Cane ’66 right hand twill Japanese selvedge
• Fit: Traditional mid-rise straight leg with a slight taper below the knee
• Other details:
  • White/pink selvedge ID
  • Original “M” pocket stitch design and solid un-branded cowhide leather patch on back right pocket
  • Printed MFSC cloth patch on waistband
  • Hidden back pocket rivets with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching
  • NOS 100% cotton woven plaid, indigo dyed yarn pocket lining
  • Original MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons and unmarked copper rivets
  • Made in the USA of Japanese denim
• Available at: Self Edge for $330.00 USD

Photos

The post Mister Freedom Lot. 64 “Californian” Blue Jeans – Just Released appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Japan’s American Casual style incorporates various mid-century American influences into its style – the workwear of factory and railroad workers, the rebellious biker, the west-coat cowboy, and others – but one of the most conspicuous though somewhat under-represented in the West is that of military reproduction.

Though Buzz Rickson is known for this style and companies like Sugar Cane occasionally explore it as well, it’s a major part of the Japanese vintage scene that’s under-represented in the West. It’s an interesting testament to the Japanese mindset that, only a few years after the loss of World War II, men became enamoured with the style of American soldiers, particularly the heavyweight, durable flight jackets worn by Air Force aviators who fought against Japan in the war.

Decades later, reproductions of military jackets are perhaps more popular in Japan than North America; though it’s a rather ironic twist, it’s hard to fault the Japanese interpretation of classic American military wear.

A Toys McCoy leather jacket.

One of Japan’s outstanding military brands is Toys McCoy. Despite the similar name, the company should not be confused with The Real McCoys as they split some years ago and are now completely separate companies. Toys McCoy reproduces not only the quality and design of vintage military jackets, but also the personalized details that made each item a unique creation.

Though the Toys McCoy jackets carry a high price tag – often approaching $3,000 USD – you’d be hard-pressed to find jackets created with more love or attention to detail. From their plain A-2 jackets to lavishly decorated and aged examples, it’s evident that the brand isn’t content to simply reproduce the specs of a garment – they also infuse them with the same life and unique qualities that make originals so desirable.

But while A-2 and N-1 military jackets might be the company’s bread and butter, they’re far from all that the brand has to offer. Toys McCoy also offers a wide range of pants and trousers – particularly of note of jeans like the 135D, based on World War II specs and the company’s imagining of jeans for aircraft carrier deck crews.

The brand’s apparel has a very different flavour from strict reproduction or work wear brands which is particularly evident in their T-shirt and sweatshirt designs featuring Air Force and other vintage motifs. They’re a good way for the denim head to diversify his wardrobe beyond the more common work wear items. For those into a more classic look, the Engineer 135D is another good choice with plainer detailing and subtle military touches like the stitch colours and US Air Force pocket bags.

Besides military-themed products, Toys McCoy also takes inspiration from racing. The company offers reproductions of Buco helmets, rider’s jackets and T-shirts based off the film Easy Rider, Steve McQueen, and others. Though the company’s product certain stands on its own, it’s licenses like these that offer some of their most interesting work – for example, their Shelby Cobra racing jackets and Mopar apparel.

These are all well-worth exploring for the denim head who’s interested in vintage-inspired fashion that goes beyond work and western wear, and the company’s T-shirts and sweatshirts are a good way to try the brand prior to buying a leather jacket, for example.

While many companies cover their products in garbled, patchwork English phrases, the graphics and wording on Toys McCoy products have an authenticity and plausibility that’s quite refreshing for Japanese brands that tend to go overboard.

As their name suggests, Toys McCoy has a playful side not often seen in reproduction brands. You’ll find motorcycle helmets with Warner Bros. characters, action figures, whistles, dog tags and other diverse and interesting accessories.

Compared to many Japanese brands that stick with familiar styles and themes that have already been thoroughly explored, Toys McCoy are quite adept at finding new and interesting ways to evoke American nostalgia in their products.

The post Introducing Toys McCoy – Classic & Vintage Military Wear appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

A while back we covered a brand from Colorado called White Horse Trading Co which is owned by Ryan Martin, the sole operator of the brand making everything from start to finish. For Martin, White Horse was an experiment to test fits, fabrics, and techniques and in that respect, it was a great learning experience and overall huge success.

Since then, however, the brand has moved on from the experimentation phase with a fuller line up of fits, as well as plans to add on Ready-To-Wear garments to their bespoke offerings. With that significant change comes a new name. White Horse Trading Co has now become WH Ranch Dungarees.

R1911

Under the new moniker, Martin now offers three fits of jeans and a denim jacket. All the garments feature a 15 oz. shrink to fit selvedge denim from Cone Mills that will serve as the mainstay fabric for WH Ranch Dungarees. It’s important to note though that during the White Horse Trading Co. phase, Martin had a chance to test out all sorts of fabrics and developed an extensive knowledge of different denim available around the world.

As a result, he will be regularly offering limited runs using different types of fabric alongside the 15 oz. STF denim. Those who follow him on various social networking sites and apps recently had a chance to purchase the jeans made from a very limited Nihon Menpu 16 oz. Sugar Cane denim. It’ll be very interesting to see what else he has up his sleeves in the coming months.

While fabrics choices are an important part of what makes an article of clothing worth looking at, it’s the construction of the garments that really sets WH Ranch Dungarees apart. Everything is still done from beginning to end by Martin using only single needle construction and self enclosed components so that there are no raw edges and overlocked edges.

They all feature a seemingly endless list of details such as heavy 10 oz. drill cloth pocket bags, heavy Tex 80 cotton/poly thread, roped hems, YKK brass buttons, hand branded hair-on-hide patch and copper rivets and burrs. These details shows where Martin’s attention is focused and it’s clear that his goal is create clothes that are durable, will age gracefully with time, and feature aesthetically pleasing but functional details both on the outside and inside of the clothes.

In terms of fits, there are three options available: the R1901X Icon Fit (straight), R1911 Slim Boot Cut, and R1914 Vintage Fit (tapered). The R1901J is a modified type II jacket with one front pocket, cinch back, hair on hide patch, and single needle triple stitching throughout.

R1901X

R1901J

R1901J

In the spirit of collaboration and experimenting with different fits, fabrics and ideas, Martin has also teamed up with photography Cory Piehowicz (also known as the Bandit Photographer) and the North Carolina retail shop Old North to create a brand called, The Lower 48.

The Lower 48 will be an ongoing collaboration that focuses on workwear inspired clothing with a nod to the old western styles. The first run from this partnership is a double knee jean made from a 15 oz. pink-lined black Japanese selvedge denim. Named the Roughneck, the jean features many of the same construction details as the jeans from WH Ranch Dungarees but adds a double knee for durability, side entry pockets, a utility pocket, and a cinch back on the waist. It’s a true workwear jean that is meant to last a long time for those who put their jeans to the test.

The Roughneck

If 2013 was any indication of what we can expect from Ryan, then 2014 will prove to be an exciting time to watch what WH Ranch Dungarees will have to offer. Keep up to date on their website.

Source: The Bandit Photographer

Source: The Bandit Photographer

The post WH Ranch Dungarees And The Lower 48 – Onwards And Upwards appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Denim has a long history that spans over three centuries now. It has gone from a true workwear staple used only by those who needed it to a fabric that has been embraced by the general population and has spawned a whole movement of enthusiasts that enable sites like this to exist. It seems that many periods of history in America can be defined by the prevalent style of denim (mostly by the Big Three: Levi’s, Wrangler, and Lee). That legacy lives on today, where certain styles of jeans are explicitly modeled after specific years in denim: 1947, 1954, 1966, etc.

There are a multitude of distinct styles and production standards from each time period that have all influenced the jeans jeans we see today. Some enthusiast denim brands have gone so far as to recreate certain jeans from a bygone era, or even based their whole brand behind recreating these jeans. The whole idea behind this repro denim has slowly grown and become more common with some brands producing jeans that are as close to the real vintage jean as possible.

Here are a few of our favorites:

Levi’s Vintage Clothing 1947 501

Levi’s Vintage Clothing is dedicated to reproducing vintage Levi’s pieces and any of their jeans could be included on this list but we’ll just stick with two. The 1947 501 is probably the most recognizable and reproduced cut, which you’ll see again in a few of the examples here.

It has the now classic high rise with a slimmer top block that runs straight through the leg. Details-wise, it features the two horses leather patch, hidden rivets, stitched back pocket arcuates and the reappearance of the watch pocket rivets.

Available at Brooklyn Denim Co. for $260. Images courtesy LVC.

Levi’s Vintage Clothing 1954 501Z

LVC’s 1954 501Z was a controversial jean that has since become a pretty popular silhouette with its slim tapered cut. The Z stands for the zipper fly, a detail added to appeal to the East Coast market, which was more used to zippered pants at the time.

It still retains the higher rise and details like the leather patch, rivets, and mid weight Cone Mills denim.

Available at Brooklyn Denim Co. for $260. Images courtesy LVC.

Sugar Cane 1947

Based on the classic Levi’s 1947 501 jeans, Sugar Cane‘s version is full of period correct details that includes the hidden rivets and the 14oz denim that is carefully woven and dyed to match the same indigo color as the original.

Made completely in Japan, the fit stays true to the 1947 with its high rise and straight leg cut.

Available at Self Edge for $249

Red Cloud R423XX

Also based on the 1947, Red Cloud R423XX takes the same fit and details but updates it with their own 13.75oz right hand twill denim made from cotton grown in Xinjiang, China.

Other details include a Red Cloud tab, lambskin patch, and 100% cotton threading.

Available at Tuck Shop for $189

The Real McCoy’s Lot 003

During WWII, many materials were in short supply which prompted the government to put in restrictions that required clothing companies to change what they used to make their clothes.

The Real McCoy’s Lot 003 reflects the jeans made during this time with details like the logo-less buttons and rivets, absence of rivets on the coin pocket, asymmetrical back pocket stitching and all cotton thread. They stray a bit with a 17oz. Japanese selvedge denim but all in all, it maintains the WWII aesthetic.

Available at Blue in Green for $436

Toys McCoy Engineers Denim Lot 135D

With the supply shortage during WWII, higher quality workwear clothing were reserved for military personnel and factory workers involved with industries that were helping the war efforts. Toys McCoy Engineers Denim Lot 135D attempts to replicate the jeans worn by aircraft manufacturing workers.

It’s made from a 13.5 oz selvedge denim and has details like “U.S.A.A.T” branded rivets, US Army Air Force logo and slogan printed on the pockets, olive threading on the button hole that widely used during WWII, offset back belt loop, and leather patch design that honors the airline industry.

Available at DC4 for $380

Lee Japan 1952 101Z

Lee has a long history with denim dating all the way back to the early 1900s. While their presence has diminished in the latter half of the century, they had a pretty significant presence in American culture with icons like James Dean and Bob Dylan favoring their jeans.

The Lee 1952 101Z is a reproduction of the exact jean manufactured and popularized in 1952 featuring a 13.75oz left hand twill selvedge denim. Lee has carefully replicated the iconic leather patch that leaves off the the “R” trademark sign that didn’t appear until after the 60s, cross bartacked back pockets, half lined back pockets, zipper fly, and copper and yellow thread.

Sold out at Aero Leather Clothing for $284

What are some of your favorite models of repro denim? Sound off in the comments below!

The post 7 Pairs of Repro Denim: Bringing the Classics Back to Life appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

The little details that go into a pair of jeans can often be overlooked by the less discerning consumer. Only the most passionate denimheads care about chainstitches, selvedge lines, and tucked waistbands. But there are two design details few can overlook: the back pocket arcuate–which we highlighted recently–and the design of a brand’s patch. These allow for a designer’s artistic spirit to make a statement, one that might convince or deter a consumer from purchasing their creation.

With this in mind, we’ve assembled a near complete raw denim patch collection of the brands we know and love. Over a hundred raw denim-producing brands have been included, spanning one man operations to enormous denim manufacturers. Some reproduce the old guard’s patches to a near infringing level, while others use a completely original design, while some forgo the patch altogether.

We are only displaying one patch per brand due to space constraints, but many brands have numerous patches and some–like Sugar Cane or Kamikaze Attack–have a different patch for each model. We’ve picked the patches that we feel are most representative of the brand. As always, sound off in the comments section below with any favorite brands we may have overlooked.

3sixteen

3sixteen+

3×1

(No Patch Typically Used-NPTU)

45RPM

Akai-Me Denim

Allevol

Ande Whall

A.P.C.

(NPTU)

Apolis

Atelier Ladurance

Baldwin Denim

Benny Gold

Benzak Denim Developers

Big John

Billiam

Brooklyn Denim Co.

Buck Mason

Burgus Plus

bybeatle

Carhartt

Patch on Pocket

Cheap Monday

Cheese Denim

Denham the Jeanmaker

Denim Demon

Denime

Detroit Denim Co.

Dickies 1922

Patch on Pocket

Dior

(NPTU)

Double Volante

Dry Bones

Dyer & Jenkins

Eat Dust

Edwin

Elhaus

Endrime

Epaulet

Eternal

Evisu

E-Workers

Factotum

The Flat Head

Flint and Tinder

Folta & Co.

Full Count

Fundamental Agreement Luxury

(NPTU)

G-Star Raw

Gap

Gustin

Hiut Denim

Howies

I Love Ugly

Imogene + Willie

(NPTU)

Imperial

Indigofera

Iron Heart

Jack Spade

Japan Blue

Jean Shop

Jelado

Kamikaze Attack

Kapital

Lee

Left Field NYC

Levi’s

Mister Freedom

Mod9

Momotaro

Naked & Famous

Natural Selection

Noble Denim

Norman Porter

Northern Denim Co.

Nudie

Oldblue Co.

OMNIGOD

Oni

Ooe Yofukten

Orgueil

Pace

Paleo

Paulrose Products

Paul Smith

Phable

PI Hagberg

Pike Brothers

Pointer Brand

(Cloth Patch on Pocket)

PRPS

Pure Blue Japan

rag & bone

(lower cased initials on pocket only, no patch)

Railcar Fine Goods

Raleigh Denim

Real Japan Blues

Real McCoys

Red Cloud

Rising Sun & Co.

Rogue Territory

Roy

RPMWEST

RRL

Ruell & Ray

Samurai

Shockoe Denim

Skull Jeans

Somet

Steel Feather

Stevenson Overall Co.

Stone Island

The Strike Gold

The Stronghold

Studio D’Artisan

Sugar Cane

Sunrise Japan

Tellason

Toys McCoy

Triple Works

Trophy

UES

Unbranded

Uniqlo

United Stock Dry Goods

The West Is Dead

Warehouse

Williamsburg Garment Co.

(Embossed Logo Instead of Patch)

WP Lavori

Wrangler

(Patch on Pocket)

The post The Complete Raw Denim Patch Collection appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

With Iu Franquesa of Barcelona’s Companion Denim, Spain seems like the next big place for small denim labels. Based on the small Mediterranean island of Mallorca uncle and nephew Jose ‘Pepin’ Vives (left) and Jose Luis Vives (right) have blended Japanese fabrics and old American styles with a touch of their local Spanish flair in their brand, JWJ.

With the founders a generation apart, each of the Vives brings a different background in their approach to denim. Pepin was born in the late 1940s, during the oppressive rule of Spanish General Franco, he bought his first pair of jeans as smuggled contraband after seeing the film West Side Story. He worked mainly as an antique buyer but worked a second job as a shoemaker, it wasn’t long before he began to make all of his own clothing.

Luis, thirty years Pepin’s junior, began his work in film and music, concurrently studying film and playing in several bands. Just like his uncle, cinema inspired his first connection with denim.

Although they’ve had plenty of experience tailoring and working with clothes in the past, JWJ is their first brand and they’ve been producing samples and perfecting their designs since October of 2013.

Admitted fans of other small denim manufacturers like Mister Freedom and Roy, JWJ’s designs tend to be more historically inspired. They’ve pored over books of old western clothing and recovered pieces, picking out their favorite details to incorporate into their own designs.

“Our works are inspired in the roots of worker and denim clothes,” Says Pepin, “We document all our designs in the past sources, but the sight of our eyes have changed since Mr. Strauss began. Some small adaptations in lines, drops and sartorial cuts are the instruments that we use to give a little twist to old designs.”

When we had the pleasure of meeting Pepin and Luis at Denim by PV they were wearing two of their earliest samples, cinch-back jackets made of Nihon Menpu’s sugarcane/cotton blend denim fabric. The brand’s Spanish touch comes from the silk-blend ikat fabric that lines each jacket’s collar.

They weave the fabric themselves on nineteenth-century shuttle looms on the island of Mallorca. See a video of their weaving process below:

Pepin and Luis are just about to begin production on their first run, which will include the jackets as well as jeans, vests, and shirts. All are planned to be released in early 2015. They also look forward to producing pieces in other traditional fabrics like Harris Tweed and veg-tanned leather soon.

Keep track of the latest developments with JWJ Brand on their tumblr.

The post JWJ Brand: Spain’s Upcoming Denim Artisans appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

We’re always excited to see what the folks at Mister Freedom and Sugar Cane have in store for us for each of their seasonal collaborations. The MFSC collabs have offered up some beautiful could-have-been pieces that look to the past for inspiration without fully engaging in reproductions.

One of the most recently released pieces from the duo is the Mister Freedom Okinawa CPO Shirt. The shirt boasts some serious 11 ounce unsanforized denim–rarely found in the world of shirting–which is composed of 50 percent cotton and 50 percent sugar cane. It’s also left-hand twill, which, is softer than its right-hand cousin. As you can see from the pictures, there is some strong texture going on, with a slubbiness evident on the exterior and some hardcore nep outside and inside.

The fit and construction is based upon a military aesthetic, offering a version of the classic casual outerwear piece that takes its cue from the functionality and clean lines of a uniform. The Okinawa keeps in the tradition of offering a heavier piece: at 11 ounces, it outweighs most of its shirting counterparts.

Suffice it to say that we’re excited to see how the fades shape up on this shirt.

Details

• Name: Mister Freedom Okinawa CPO Shirt
• Weight: 11 Oz.
• Fit: Military uniform fit, similar to the Patrol Shirt from previous season without the expansion pleats in the front and back
• Fabric: Left-Hand Twill 50% cotton, 50% sugar cane fiber
• Other Details:
  • Side gussets with selvedge ID
  • Black anchor buttons
  • Olive green 100 percent cotton stitching
• Available at: Self Edge for $385

The post Mister Freedom Okinawa CPO Shirt – Just Released appeared first on RawrDenim.com.